The Intelligent Newsletter
for Those Who Appreciate Deluxe Travel
Darwin, Australia:
An Adventure Unto Itself
Australia’s northernmost capital city is a mellow, low-rise harbor town, and as it is much closer to Indonesia than to Sydney, it has the atmosphere of a tropical outpost.
Darwin is an excellent base from which to explore the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Kakadu National Park, as well as nearby Litchfield and Nitmiluk National Parks. The town’s population of 120,000 includes more than 50 nationalities, but its original settlers — and current major landowners — are the Larrakia Aboriginal people. Numerous galleries are devoted to their artwork, making Darwin, for all intents and purposes, the Aboriginal art center of the continent.
These are a few reasons to consider adding Darwin to your Australian or Indonesian itinerary; but in addition, the once sleepy town has been revitalized with stylish restaurants and chic hotels (see below) amidst a tropical climate that seems to put everyone at ease.
Most of Darwin’s visitors come to see the unforgettable Kakadu National Park, a half-day drive east of the city. This wilderness area of nearly five million acres is dotted with towering escarpments, magnificent waterfalls, vast floodplains and savannah woodlands. It is home to some of the most dramatic aboriginal rock paintings in the world — some nearly 40,000 years old.
To get the full experience of the area, plan to spend one or two nights at the top-notch Kakadu Culture Camp, a deluxe safari camp owned and run by local Aborigines. You’ll learn about the indigenous culture by means of bush tours, boat rides and spirituality lectures. Meals are delicious — if you like barbeque; the meats include crocodile, kangaroo and water buffalo. The camp is open from May through October. Doubles from about $195 per night, including continental breakfast and dinner. Night boat cruises are extra. Tel: 61-428-792-048. Fax: 61-88979-2048. www.kakaduculturecamp.com.
Water than runs to a dead end — what Americans might call a backwater — is known as a billabong to Australians. Above, a crocodile patrols a billabong for prey; below, a view of Sandy Creek Billabong near Darwin in Australia’s “Top End.”
Where to Stay in Darwin
The two best hotels in town both belong to the Mantra group. The light and airy Mantra Pandanas, a centrally located downtown tower, offers 336 satisfactory rooms, but an upgrade to a one- or two-bedroom apartment is well worth the additional cost. One-bedroom water-view apartments from about $266. 43 Knuckey Street. Tel: 61-8-8901-2900.
The more imposing Mantra on the Esplanade stands across from an oceanfront park, overlooking the spacious harbor. It includes 204 rooms and suites, but here again, the one-, two-, or three-bedroom apartments with huge sun-filled terraces are most recommendable. One-bedroom, harbor-view apartments from about $380. No. 88 The Esplanade. Tel: 618-8943-4333. Note, of the two hotels, this one is more frequently sold out.
Both hotels have gym equipment and pools with spa services. The on-site restaurants are reliable, but one can do much better at the city’s many fine eating places. www.mantra.com.au.
Enjoy a long leisurely outdoor meal of Australian specialties at the well-regarded Char Restaurant, which occupies one of the oldest tropical-style homes in Darwin, complete with shutters, arches and ceiling fans. The expansive terrace garden is lit up with fairy lights at night. As you might surmise, Char specializes in steak but offers a full second menu featuring seafood as well. Its epic wine list includes labels from all over the continent, as well as New Zealand. Dinner for two, before wine, about $165. Corner of Esplanade and Knuckey Streets. Tel: 61-8-89814544. www.chardarwin.com.au.
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