Continents

Mazatlan

For almost a century, the beautiful stretch of beach north of the port of Mazatlán has attracted vacationers, especially sport-fishing enthusiasts.

Today, Mazatlan ranks among the best of fishing hot spots, promising trophy-size catches of striped marlin, sailfish, black marlin and other game fish, and at considerably lower cost than at Cabo San Lucas, directly west across the Sea of Cortez.

Evening conversation in the hotels along the seven-mile beach is likely to center on the catch of the day and the one that got away, but there will usually also be a contingent of skin divers and surfers to add their tales of conquest in the crystal waters of the Pacific. These are the principal attractions of Mazatlán along with sun-filled days on the beach, gorgeous sunsets and a relaxed atmosphere.

Hotels are pleasant, but not up to the luxury standards of other Mexican beach resorts. The quiet, colorful side streets radiating off the central Machado Plaza have a goodly number of shops and galleries where a low-key attitude prevails and browsing is welcome.

Casa de Leyendas, a colorful hacienda-style bed & breakfast inn, offers six rooms that are nicely furnished and well maintained. It’s located across the street from the city’s art museum and just 200 feet from Olas Altas beach.

Amenities include Internet service, complimentary calls to the U.S. and a pretty interior courtyard with fountain and hot tub. Doubles from about $100, including a wonderful breakfast. Venustiano Carranza #4. Tel: 602-445-6192. www.casadeleyendas.com.

Seafood – particularly shrimp, as Mazatlán is the home port of Mexico’s largest shrimp fleet – is the food of choice at the city’s many restaurants. One of our favorites, Pedro y Lola, serves regional Sinaloan dishes such as a starter of beef tongue in vinegar sauce, a main dish of shrimp in fresh orange-Cointreau sauce and, for dessert, banana pie. It’s located on Machado Plaza, and local musicians usually entertain at dinner. The local artists’ paintings on the walls are for sale. Dinner for two, before drinks, about $50. Avenida Constitución. Tel: 52-669-982-2589. www.restaurantpedroylola.com.

Winter Events

If you visit Mazatlán between November and May, on Fridays you can participate in the city’s Artwalk. The self-guided tour (a map is at their website) leads through the quiet back streets of the old town and permits access to some beautiful historical buildings and even to a few homes.

Every January, the city holds a bird festival focused on the more than 400 species that are found here. Special tours and art exhibits are scheduled.

In February, Mazatlan’s International Carnaval explodes with parades, bands, fireworks, art displays, concerts, and street parties. Centered along the seawall in Old Mazatlan, it attracts tens of thousands of locals and vacationers. Traditionally locals break cascarones (eggshells filled with confetti) on the head of a person they like. Fun, but crowded.

Mazatlan's solid character and lack of pretention is because of fish. An ancient city, actually, Mazatlan was born of Native Indians who lived modest lives for many centuries, but were rich in fish to sustain themselves. As invaders and settlers came to the land, fishing maintained itself as the central focus. And today, vacationers know Mazatlan as the sportfishing capital of Mexico.

Fleets of charter boats and experienced captains await those who come in prime season, March through December — although there is no bad time to fish off Mazatlan. And the majority of the world's nine sport fish are found here, including sailfish, three kinds of marlin, grouper, tuna, dorado and sea bass.

Plan on spending about $200 per person for a day of charter-boat fishing, including all the necessary gear, and be ready for an early morning start.