Continents

Lithuania

Lithuania's past can be viewed as a rich panorama of faith, art and architecture or as a tale of unspeakable horror. Both stories are eloquently recorded in the country's museums and churches and even in its residential neighborhoods, especially in the capital city, Vilnius. Here, from the hilltop tower of the Higher Castle Museum, arrayed before you is a wonderful vista of baroque domes and towers and more than 30 lavishly ornamented churches. Beyond the city's broad central square and the cathedral with its spectacular baroque chapel of Saint Casimir, Lithuania's patron saint, is the Museum of Applied Art with a splendid exhibition of Christianity in Lithuanian Art.

Vilnius was once widely renowned as a center of Jewish culture as well. More than 200,000 Jews lived in Lithuania in 1941; all but about ten percent were exterminated during World War II.

Your arrival at Vilnius's modest and dated airport fails to prepare you for this dynamic and architecturally exquisite city, small enough to walk everywhere and with an Old Town that has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1994. Among the guidebooks to Lithuania, the Vilnius City Guide, by Tomas Venclova, is well written, and the In Your Pocket Guide to Vilnius is packed with information.

HOTELS—Three hotels in the Old Town are particularly appealing.

The Stikliai Hotel, affiliated with the Relais & Châteaux group, has 23 luxuriously furnished rooms and six suites, all centered around the glass-roofed courtyard of a handsome 16th century residence. The courtyard itself is the main dining room where a pianist quietly plays during dinner. The food is delicious—we think it the best in town. Typical of the impressive menu is a wonderfully tender wild boar filet with red cabbage and mushrooms. In the cellar, a more informal tavern serves Lithuanian specialties. Service throughout the hotel is very friendly, and despite its diminutive size, the property manages to include a tiny pool and sauna and a library. Doubles from about $200, including breakfast. Dinner for two, without wine, in the courtyard, about $80. Gaono Street, 7. Tel: 370-5-264-9595. www.stikliaihotel.lt.

The family-owned Narutis Hotel is situated in the heart of the Old Town in an elegantly remodeled building that has been a hotel since the 16th century. Inside an impressive entrance, an atrium houses the lobby and a glass-sided elevator. There are 57 attractive rooms, each individually decorated and all with air-conditioning; bathrooms are compact but bright and functional. The restaurant, located in a vaulted cellar, serves well-prepared continental food, and there is a popular Art Deco, street-side café-restaurant as well. Service is friendly, with several of the young staff able to speak fair English. Doubles from about $200, including a buffet breakfast. 24 Pilies Street. Tel: 370-5-212-2894. www.narutis.com.

The Radisson Astorija Hotel is an attractive restored building close to the Town Hall (where the central tourism office is located). Its 120 rooms are furnished in comfortable hotel style—thoroughly satisfactory, but not inspired. Bathrooms have either a shower or tub; amenities are standard for an international chain property. Meals are served in the Brasserie Astorija, which has a pleasant verandah. Doubles from about $190, including breakfast buffet. Wheelchair accessible. Didzioji 35/2. Tel: 800-333-3333. www.radissonblu.com.

RESTAURANTS—Along Pilies Street, and on streets leading off of it, you will find many inexpensive restaurants serving good Lithuanian food. One of the best is Lokys, which specializes in game. Be sure to try the ravioli-like pasta called koldunai and the potato pancakes called cepelinai, and if you're a vodka drinker, the Lithuanian variety is distinctively different and very good. Dinner for two, with vodka, about $25. Stikliu Street, 8. Locals enjoy dining at Da Antonio, at Vilnius Street 23, and St. Valentino, at the corner of Vilnius Street and Traku—both standard Italian.

SHOPPING—There is a surprisingly varied assortment of smart shops and boutiques along the winding streets in the Old Town. One of the best buys is amber, and there are several reliable, though not inexpensive, places to buy it along Ausros Vartu Street (one of the best is at #9), and at the Amber Gallery at St. Mykolo, 8.