Continents

Restaurant Det Gamle Raadhus

At first blush, Restaurant Det Gamle Raadhus, in Oslo, Norway, might seem a cliché of dusty splendor and stiff service, but lately, regulars have been raving about the revamped, local-inspired menu. The reindeer steak with a ragu of morels is a new take on an old dish – made lighter and given a little port reduction to brighten the flavors. Any starter featuring the house-smoked red trout is worth ordering; it’s a salty, bracing fillet that’s just right with horseradish cream. Dinner for two, before wine, about $160. Nedre slottsgate 1. Tel: 47-2242-0107. www.gamleraadhus.no.