Continents

Frenchie

For some inexplicable reason the French think the English-speaking world refers to them as “Frenchies” – a grating example of Franglais if we ever heard one. Nevertheless, young chef Gregory Marchand’s tiny bistro, Frenchie, in a pedestrian street in the Sentier – Paris’s old garment district – is the hit of the season, offering a revealing insight into the state of bistro cooking these days.

Marchand previously worked with Jamie Oliver in London and at Danny Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern in New York City, and this pedigree informs his smart, spontaneous and very inventive market menus. He offers two starters, two main courses and two desserts daily.

Our recent dinner showed off his style to great advantage. We started with celery-root soup spiked with vinegar and garnished with a poached egg, croutons and a slice of foie gras. This was followed by some superb brandade de morue (salt-cod with whipped potatoes and garlic) served with roasted red-pepper coulis. And for dessert, a delicious chocolate tart. A brief but excellent wine list and a pleasant setting exposed brick walls, factory lamps, and bare wood floors and tables make this place a real discovery for relaxed dining on outstanding food. Dinner for two, before wine, about $120. 5 rue du Nil (2nd) Tel: 33-14039-9619.