Continents

Aix-En-Provence

Aix-En-Provence is a magnet for people interested in art. Cezanne's studio (restored by American admirers to its 1906 state, the year of the artist's demise), is filled with memorabilia, and there are several fine museums. The Musee Granet features Italian, Spanish, Dutch, and Flemish paintings, as well as objects d'art from medieval times to the 17th century. It also has a few major Cezanne paintings. Local history and folklore make up the contents of the Museum of Old Aix. In the Archbishop's Palace, you'll find the Museum of Tapestry and Furniture. The Paul Arbaud Museum displays interesting paintings, drawings, and objects d'art.

The Cathedrale de St-Sauveur reflects several different architectural periods, ranging from the early 12th century to the 16th. Also worth a visit is the Church of Mary Magdalene, which has a fine Flemish Triptych of the Annunciation. And don't miss the Manes Library in the Hotel de Ville. It contains 300,000 books.

The best place to stay is the Villa Gallici, a deluxe 20-room establishment on a hill just outside of town. The food and accommodations could hardly be improved upon. Doubles from about $200. 18 bis avenue les Violettes. Tel: 33-4-4223-2923. Fax: 33-44296-3045.

The appealing 29-room Augustins, a former convent, is another good choice. You should ask for one of the two rooms with a balcony. No restaurant. Best doubles from about $200. 3 rue Masse. Tel: 33-4-4227-2859. Fax: 33-4-4226-7487.

The best restaurant in Aix is Clos de la Violette, which has an attractive garden for al fresco dining. Dinner for two, without wine, about $150. 10 avenue les Violettes. Tel: 33-4-4223-3071.

Route D17 runs east from Aix along the southern side of Mont Ste- Victoire, passing several lovely villages, including St. Antonin-sur-Bahon, Pourrieres, and Le Tholonet, with its 19th-century Chateau Noir. Along the route on the northern side of the mountain is the village of Vauvenargues, where Picasso lived until 1961.

The Chateau des Aspras about 60 miles due north of St. Tropez in the Provencal countryside, is a pleasant, comfortable, and tranquil (but not grand) place for a family reunion or gathering of friends. The house, built in 1860, accommodates up to 16 people in seven bedrooms. There are six bathrooms, four en-suite. The building is set in 35 acres of its own vineyards and olive groves and has an attractive pool and tennis court. A chef and two maids make up the staff. All is managed by the local landowner, who speaks excellent English. Airport pick-up in Marseille or Nice can be arranged, and the house car, a Renault Espace, can be made available.

Des Aspras is about eight miles north of Brignoles. Fishing, riding, and golf are nearby. Weekly high-season rentals are available (June 26-September 11). Expensive. For details: Private Properties Abroad, South Hill, Whixley, York Y05 8AR, England. Tel: 44-1423-33-0533. Fax: 44-1423-33-1375.