Passport Newsletter Feature

Dining in France

Memorable dining opportunities beyond the French capital can be simply outstanding. If you’re a “foodie,” a great cook yourself, or merely a traveler who likes to sample fine examples of the culture at hand, you’ll surely enjoy the culinary options that abound throughout France.

We’ve stitched together a sampler of five regional options to help you start on a design for your own tapestry of Gallic gastronomic experiences.

Burgundy
Heritage and Grace

Rolling green farmlands and hillside vineyards produce the fresh greens, local meats and superb table wines that local townsfolk take for granted. Some of these ? particularly fruits and wines ? are produced in small enough quantities that unless you eat in the area, you’re likely never to taste them. And this may be why those who vacation in Burgundy’s tiny stone-cottage villages — or who cruise aboard slow canal barges, or who visit the “big” towns with hallmark tiled roofs, such as Dijon — eat so well by shopping at the daily local market.

Tucked away in this beautiful Burgundy countryside, but within easy driving distance of the region’s great wine towns, is the 12th-century Abbaye de la Bussiere, built by Cistercian monks and later occupied by the archbishop of Dijon. It now houses a Relais et Chateaux restaurant directed by Chef Emmanuel Hébrard, who oversees gastronomic affairs. It is open only for dinner. His approach is traditional, with creative accents to raise once-staid dishes to modern sensibilities. For example, standard starters such as escargot and foie gras find new audiences by virtue of pairings with a specialty chevre and spiced tomato chutney, respectively.

Entrees vary but typical fare includes veal scented with lemon thyme, cod in coconut milk with coriander, and a Charollais beef rib-eye accompanied by apples and Béarnaise. The cheese selection is divine, particularly if you're an American unaccustomed to fine French cheeses, and the desserts are "just enough." We like the sabayon of strawberries with an accent of balsamic as an atypical and stimulating finish, as opposed to something more sugary.

The wine selection is superb — indeed, anything less in this part of France would be unforgiveable. In addition, you’ll find a genuinely warm welcome from the French staff, which adds charm to the whole evening.

If you elect to stay overnight at the abbey, you may also want to try the bistro, open only for lunch ? an excellent option. Tel: 33-3-80-490-229. www.abbaye-dela-bussiere.com.

Brittany
Superb Seafood

The typical tour of Brittany used to begin in Quimper, the largest, westernmost city. But now it makes more sense to go to Rennes via the high-speed train (TGV), and by ordinary rail from there to Vannes where you can pick up a rental car for the rest of your visit.

Throughout Brittany, you should travel the secondary roads whenever possible. They will lead you to snug villages of stone houses, interesting churches, and some spectacular roadside calvaries; and here and there you might very well find a first-rate creperie, the indigenous and delicious “fast food” dispensaries of Brittany.

For your first real Breton meal, drive out to Pressoir, about four miles from Vannes toward St-Ave. Try the red mullet and potato crepe, which is one of the rare examples of successful innovation with Breton cooking. This region has the best seafood in France, especially oysters, shellfish and lobsters, and is renowned for its superb crepes. The more basic Breton fare celebrates the catch of the day here. So, where the choice presents itself, go with the grilled sole instead of the same fish in an elaborate sauce; and if you want something more refined, try a lobster a l’americaine (or, more legitimately, l’armoricaine, which refers to the native Breton language, Armoric), usually in a sauce of butter, cognac, white wine, and tomatoes ? a regional specialty. Dinner for two, before wine, about $160. 7 rue Hopital, Vannes. Tel: 33-2-9760-8763. www.le-pressoir.fr.

Biarritz
Sporty by Day, Elegant by Night

Biarritz has gone in and out of style since the 19th century, when a gang of European aristocrats, following the example of Empress Eugenie, anointed it “their” summer retreat. Today, it’s benefiting from one of its periodic resurgences as a resort area, an adventure travel destination (surfing, hiking and four-wheel driving in the mountains) and a convention city.

Because of its aristocrat-by-night air, there is no shortage of elegant and formal dining rooms in Biarritz. One of the better ones, Restaurant Philippe, is run by Chef Philippe Lafargue, who trained with Alain Ducasse. Lafargue brings the spirit of “nouveau” to Basque cuisine, helping it to evolve beyond agrarian-era traditional to something more inventive. Lamb and pork dishes are, as you would expect, delectable, but it’s the seafood that soars. There’s also a tasting menu of multiple, morsel-sized courses that verge on the avant-garde. The wine list emphasizes Basque wines ? do try them. Dinner for two, before wine, about $200. 30 ave. du Lac Marion. Tel: 05-59-23-13-12. www.restaurant-biarritz.com.

Epernay
Epicenter of Champagne

The monumental Cathedral of Reims, the rolling hills of grapes and the champagne houses of Epernay are just a bit more than an hour from Paris by train. If you catch the morning express to Epernay from the Gare de l’Est, you can see it all in a splendid one-day excursion.

Head first for the gold-lettered gates of Moët & Chandon. At the door, you will see a statue of Dom Perignon, the “Father of Champagne,” who spent almost 50 years at his Benedictine abbey looking for the perfect combination of grapes to produce his sparkling wine, finally settling on a mixture of Chardonnay, Pinot noir and Pinot meunier. Moët & Chandon, the largest producer of champagne, was founded in 1743, just 28 years after Dom Perignon’s death. Tours are offered in 12 languages and cost less than $10. Afterwards you can buy champagne and other wine-related items at the company shop. www.moet.com.

The choice for lunch in Epernay is the classic La Table Kobus, a short walk from Moët & Chandon. The country-chic restaurant, across the street from the Notre Dame church, is a quintessential example of Vieux-France. There, your excellent lunch might consist of lobster ravioli drizzled with hazelnut oil; followed by scallops with lemongrass, fennel and mint; and a coconut dessert with Pyranees cherries and hibiscus jelly. A similar lunch ran to about $60 per person when we visited, and of course we splurged with a bottle of Moët Brut Imperial. Superb! (With a nod to the economy, the restaurant also offers a small number of local champagne splits.) 3 rue Rousseau. Tel: 33-3-2651-5353. www.la-table-kobus.fr.

Avignon
Monuments and Parks

Avignon is one of the most visited cities in France, but if you go at any time other than the summer season, you can spend several delightful days with hardly a tourist in sight. All the better to explore a city of numerous parks, and the thick history of rule by Romans, Popes, kingdoms, and ultimately the French crown, which ruled it long before Avignon was actually a part of France.

Between imposing palace and unassuming abode, Avignon conceals some of its better dining opportunities. One of our favorite tables is Hiély-Lucullus, still one of the best restaurants in the region, and a trip to Avignon would be less than complete without at least one meal there. Despite being situated on the city’s main street, the restaurant offers a less-than-impressive location and entryway; but don’t be put off.

Once inside the dining room, you’ll be thoroughly delighted with the surroundings, the service and best of all, the food. Dishes are simple but expertly prepared and presented, and unlike some other regions of France, vegetarians find satisfying choices. The wine selection includes several very good local bottlings. Dinner for two, without wine, about $90. Reservations essential. 5 rue de la Republique. Tel: 33-4-9086-1707. www.hiely-lucullus.com.