JACKSON HOLE
Where to Head When It’s Time to Press “Pause”
In a harried world, perspective is the first casualty. Get it back at Jackson Hole, a place where peace and space and time remain in abundance.
Jackson Hole is an area that includes the Grand Tetons National Park, Yellowstone National Park, the town of Jackson, and the National Elk Refuge. Its seasons showcase magnificent views across a vast eco-scape − a sweeping grass valley, untamed granite peaks and wildlife at home on the range. See it from countless hiking trails, from horseback on top of the mesa, from a raft on the Snake River, or from a chair lift.
Winter and summer are famously attractive in Jackson Hole, and these are the seasons when getting the best hotel accommodations are a competitive sport in their own right. Spring and fall draw fewer crowds, and even though some resorts close during these periods, others remain open with dramatically lower rates. If skiing is a priority, you’ll obviously want to come in winter; but if you need to decompress from the urban jungle, don’t overlook the joys of a quiet spring or fall, with long walks on sunny days and a good book at the ready in case of rain.
There are two golf courses in the area, as well as a few tennis courts and a museum of western art. If you’re inspired to end your day with the type of meal a local rancher might enjoy, pull up a chair at the uber-western Silver Dollar Bar & Grill (at the Wort Hotel in Jackson), order a Moose Drool brown ale and a buffalo burger, and avoid making eye contact with the tourists taking snapshots in front of a wall of silver dollars.
To see the Grand Tetons or Yellowstone, follow the main highway north from Jackson (in seasons when road conditions permit) for about 58 miles to Yellowstone’s south entrance. The drive will take you through the entire length of Grand Teton National Park’s eastern side. Once in Yellowstone, you can choose a variety of routes; but assuming you drive 50-100 miles within the park (it’s 22 miles to Grant Village and another 17 to Old Faithful) and allowing time to stop for lunch and photo opportunities, you can accomplish a tour of both parks in a single day if you get an early start. Overachievers, navigators, and avid photographers, note: An ambitious circle through the park is about 170 miles, making a round-trip journey from Jackson just under 300 miles in total. If you’d like to break this up, then stay at one of the casual inns near the north entrance to Yellowstone. (Nothing fancy here; you might consider driving a little farther into Bozeman for a better selection.)
Where to Stay
Amangani, located on a hill above the guest ranches and motels of Jackson Hole, is the most luxu rious accommodation in cowboy country. This first of the famed Aman resort group’s properties to open in the U.S. has 40 suites, decorated to the highest degree of elegance. Materials and furnishings throughout are in keeping with the resort’s western locale; all suites have large soaking bathtubs and spacious patios. The mountain views from each suite will confirm your decision to visit the West.
The resort’s 115-foot swimming pool overlooks the valley and mountains and is adjacent to the health center, with exercise, massage and steam rooms and body wrap and treatment centers.
There are tennis courts and the staff can also arrange Snake River rafting, golf, wildlife safaris led by biologist guides, hiking, mountain biking, birding and ballooning. A fleet of cars and drivers are on hand to take you into town.
Spring Creek Riding Stables are just a short walk away and their friendly wranglers lead rides out along a large mesa looking down on the velvet-green floor of Jackson Hole and the National Elk Refuge. Longer rides go down to the vast nature preserve below Amangani.
There are also breakfast and dinner cookouts and longer rides at a nearby mining camp. There’s a pricey Grill restaurant, with its own marvelous views from its 7,000-foot perch. It offers dishes such as New Zealand elk, Colorado lamb, Iowa beef and ostrich.
Nearby, but off the premises, the Granary restaurant has equally good food and even better views from its high cathedral windows; its bar has a less-expensive menu. At Moose Junction, about 20 miles up the road toward Yellowstone, Dornan’s bar is a colorful hangout with good pizza and local beer on tap.
Suites start at about $550, and all activities are extra. Tel: 877-734-7333. Fax: 307-734-7332. www.amanresorts.com.
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©2009, Passport Newsletter
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