Who doesn't enjoy those special places in London that tourists don't swarm? Give a boost to your next trip by dropping in on one or more of these spots.
Finding a first-rate restaurant around Covent Garden, with its hoards of tourists, may not seem possible, but Clos Maggiore discreetly fills that void. Despite its Italian-sounding name, this is an intimate French boite offering modern European food. Specialties are the chef’s tasting menu or simply prepared fish and vegetarian dishes.
A phenomenal, almost 3,000-bin wine list includes scores of pricey first-growth French vintages but also 100 bottles priced less than $50. The best tables are in the romantic conservatory, draped with floral boughs, and in the paneled dining room. Both rooms have working fireplaces. There’s also seating in the busy front room with its kitschy wall of fake privet.
Service, on our visit, was professional yet not stuffy, and efficient at getting theatergoers out on time. Dinner for two, before wine, about $100. There’s also a three-course lunch at about $30 per person. 33 King Street (WC2). Tel: 44-207-3799696.
A few blocks away, you can lose yourself in Stanfords, the venerable travel bookstore which has been in business since 1853. Spread over three floors, this is a trove of all things travel related. Past customers have included Victorian adventurers such as David Livingstone, Scott of the Antarctic and Florence Nightingale.
Every map you can think of – antique, biking, sailing, walking – is available as is a customized digital mapping service. You can browse through travel guides, books, gift items, and a branch of Craghoppers, purveyors of outdoor clothing and gear. The store’s lower level carries a comprehensive selection of London books and maps. 12-14 Long Acre (WC2). Tel: 44-207-836-1321. In Bristol, there’s a branch at 29 Corn Street.
London’s East End, where waves of immigrants made their first homes, is the location of the newly expanded Whitechapel Gallery, which has reopened after a $19 million refurbishment.
This influential public exhibition space had London’s first display of Picasso’s Guernica, and it introduced David Hockney and Pop Art to Britons; temporary exhibits still champion the work of new artists who have not previously had major exposure.
Another attraction here is the little Gallery Dining Room, casually sleek with blond wood and mirrors. The tables are too close for comfort, but the Mediterranean-influenced food is vibrant. The set lunch is about $25, while the à la carte lunch for two, before wine, is $75.
Note that on the first Thursday of each month, the Whitechapel and some 80 other London galleries stay open until 9 P.M., and most are free. 77-82 Whitechapel High Street (E1). Tel: 44-207-522-7888.
Most visitors never discover Angelus, on a quiet street behind Lancaster Gate. Owner Thierry Tomasin, former sommelier at Le Gavroche and general manager at Aubergine, hits all the right notes at this charming bistro.
Located in a converted 19th century pub, you’ll find Parisian Belle Epoque touches such as Art Nouveau mirrors, tufted leather banquettes and tables out on the sidewalk.
A signature starter is the foie gras crème brûlée, a rich liver mousse topped with caramelized poppy seed crust. We thought the pan-seared scallops and the stuffed roulade of Cotswold chicken with wild mushroom risotto were very fine. The wine list, as you’d expect, is thoughtfully selected and offers good values. Dinner for two, before wine, about $120. 4 Bathurst Street (W2). Tel: 44-207-402-0083.
A talent for spotting quirky, desirable objects and displaying them with flair is obviously in Priscilla Carluccio’s genes. She’s Sir Terence Conran’s sister and a designer in her own right. At her airy Knightsbridge shop, Few and Far, you’ll see a magpie’s mix of furniture, tableware, ethnic wearables, handmade toys and jewelry. While pondering the range, you can order a cappuccino or tea and a piece of the cake du jour, and perhaps pick up a fresh bouquet for your hostess. 245 Brompton Road (SW3). Tel: 44-207-225-7070.
St. Pancras Station, voted best in London by Tube riders, is also home to the Eurostar rail service connecting London, Paris and Brussels. The station boasts a shopping arcade, the world’s longest champagne bar, and soon a farmers market.
The age of great railway restaurants may have gone with the steam engine, but St. Pancras Grand is making a laudable effort. This handsome new brasserie is in the ornate, refurbished Victorian station, which now serves as the gateway for Eurostar. Gilded ceilings, leather seating, mirrors, retro chandeliers and even a prominent station clock hark back to the days of more leisurely travel.
Standard British classics we’ve enjoyed here include fried haddock and chips, smoked salmon with brown bread, seasonal soups and, for pudding, lemon syllabub. An express menu is available for tight schedules. Elevenses (late morning snacks) and afternoon tea are also served. Three-course dinner for two, not including wine, about $85. Pancras Road (NW1). Tel: 44-207-870-9900.
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