A Malawi Tented Camp



It is undeniably a thrill to see one of the world’s least-visited countries, and add to your “lifetime itinerary” a destination that few travelers have been to. Malawi is one such place.

Along the western shore of Lake Malawi, across from Mozambique and Tanzania in east Africa, lies Malawi. The country is not much bigger than Cuba, with a population of about 14 million, most of whom depend on subsistence farming and fishing for survival. Yet the hardship of their lives is nowhere reflected in the Malawians’ demeanor; they are sunny, friendly people, who live in a state of peace and harmony, contrasting with the turbulence elsewhere on the continent.

Most Malawians speak English and are always eager to show off their linguist abilities, even in cases of limited ability. All in all, the country’s singular charm, its consistent seasonal climates and the beauty of its natural resources give it the potential to become a far more popular tourism destination.

The best time to visit Malawi is during the southern hemisphere winter, May to October. During the coolest months, June and July, the daytime temperature averages about 70 degrees, with cooler nights.

The international airport at Lilongwe, the capital, is small, but complete with rental car desks that sell Malawian phone cards and readily offer maps and directions to destinations. Most rental cars are stick shift, right-hand drive. Road conditions throughout the country are poor, with only the main highways tarred, and even these are single lane and riddled with potholes. People and animals are everywhere on and along the roadways. At police road blocks, drivers are asked about their destination, but it’s all handled very politely. If you plan to drive, be sure to keep your fuel tank above half full, as there are very few gas stations outside the main cities. In the event you run out of gas between cities, black market gasoline is available at most village stores. There is an ATM at the airport’s departures lounge but very few elsewhere in the country. It’s best to lay in a large supply of Malawian kwachas, as they are worth only about 150 to the U.S. dollar, and credit cards are not widely used. The dollar is accepted in most places, but at unfavorable exchange rates. There is a $30 per person departure tax when leaving the country.

Lodging

On the northern shore of Lake Malawi, south of Nkhata Bay, Chintheche Inn (part of the Wilderness Safaris group) offers 10 spacious and comfortable double rooms decorated with local crafts and fitted with private bath, mosquito-netted bed, ceiling fan and French doors to the beach and gardens. There’s a small swimming pool overlooking the beach, and guests spend their time snorkeling, hiking, bird-watching, fishing or just relaxing on the beach.

Meals are served on a large thatch-roofed patio, at tables on the beach or on the room patios; food is excellent, done expertly by Florian, the chef. The staff are friendly and courteous, but expect service to be slow; life in Malawi generally lacks a sense of urgency. Doubles, about $180, including full board. Tel: 265177-1393. Fax: 265-177-1397.

Lake Malawi National Park, at the southern end of the lake, is a marine reserve, established for the protection of cichlid fish and their habitat, which are among the 600 species native to the lake – the largest variety in any of the world’s lakes. Within the park, Mumbo Island offers comfort and seclusion within an exclusive concession area off Cape Maclear.

Guests are ferried across the lake to Mumbo (through kayakafrica.net), where eco-designed accommodations for 14 guests are provided in beautiful walk-in tents under thatch roofs, all perched on cliffs overlooking the lake. Days are spent kayaking, diving (playful otters live on the island), exploring, lazing in a hammock, bird watching, or sipping a cold crisp South African chardonnay. Dinner is always by candlelight on the terrace overlooking one of the island’s small bays. The food is excellent and the staff attentive yet unobtrusive. One of Mumbo’s recent visitors was the Queen of Belgium, an indication of the level of quality and comfort available here. Weekly rate, about $1,500 per person. Tel: 27-21-7831955. Fax: 27-21-706-9771.

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©2009, Passport Newsletter

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