Henry (my host at a recent dinner party) and I were comparing our last visits to France. Henry went on at much too great a length about the inferior quality of French wines from the Midi, principally Languedoc- Roussillon.
In my view, his tirade proved two things, 1) Here was someone who was intoxicated not with the wine being served, but with his own voice, and 2) He had never bothered to reconsider an opinion he must have formed at least 20 years ago. So I pointed out a few facts.
True, for most of their history, wines from the Midi were considered to be Vin de Table at best.
But the Midi covers a considerable area, with almost 750,000 acres of grapes growing in Languedoc-Roussillon alone. And in common usage, the acreage of Provence is often included as well.
Grapes grow easily in the sunshine and varied soils of the area, and it has been a major producer for centuries. But with improvements in various growing techniques, by the 1980s, massive overproduction had brought about a serious drop in prices leading many growers to rip out a portion of their vines.
"Well," said Henry, "All of this merely confirms my judgement that you get a lot of mediocre wine from the Midi."
Not wanting to turn a difference of opinion into an argument, especially where I was a guest at the table, I let the matter drop. But had I been in a feistier mood, or had I consumed one or two more glasses of the superb Montrachet we had been drinking, I would have tried a few more facts.
In 1979, French wine authorities allowed grape varieties to be grown outside of their traditional region, provided the output was offered only as Vin de Pays. Many growers in the Midi uprooted their old vines and replaced them with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, identifying their product as Vin de Pays d'Oc, which is now the single largest classification in the region.
Along with these familiar vines, some growers took an interest in a somewhat neglected grape called Viognier, which produces a delicious white wine that is highly colored and quite aromatic.
The best-known wine of the viognier grape is called Condrieu. It is delicious, and thus far, still quite scarce.
How do I know all this about winemaking in the Midi? In truth, I know very little about wines in general and just happen to have been traveling in the Midi where I met a friendly wine merchant who was a great appreciator of the Condrieu—as well as a great salesman. Thus, my modest wine cellar contains a disproportionate two dozen bottles of the French Condrieu, which I drink only sparingly. But soon I will bring out a bottle or two and invite Henry over for the evening.
Do you have a little-known favorite wine that you’d be willing to tell us about? It may be something that others think little of or dismiss entirely. So what! If you like it, that’s all that matters. Let’s hear from you.