When I was a youngster, I always looked forward to going food shopping with my mother. I was a skinny kid, so the shopkeepers would usually hand me a treat or tell me to pick something out from the cookie boxes that stood on racks on the floor and had glass doors that opened to get at the individual cookies.
I guess it’s the recollection of those happy times that have made it essential for me to seek out food shops and markets wherever I go. Usually I buy something, but sometimes it’s enough just to wander the aisles looking at the beautifully displayed goods and take in the familiar or exotic aromas that help store the place forever in my memory.
In London, no matter how brief my visit, I make for Fortnum & Mason for their "Gentleman’s Relish" and Harrod’s food halls for preserved ginger.
In Paris, it’s a shop called Izrael, the name of the original proprietor. It’s not far from the Musée de Carnavalet in the fourth arrondissement, and it’s crammed from floor to ceiling with an astonishing variety of loose spices, sauces, condiments, teas, and delicacies. If you want to make a proper Egyptian fou (stewed pigeon beans), this is the place to find the essential spice mixture, and even the Syrian pickled turnips to go with it.
In Mexico, I love the town markets. My favorite is in Guanajuato, not far from San Miguel de Allende. The artfully displayed fruits and vegetables are all but irresistible. But I pass them up for a treat that can be indulged in only very infrequently—a fresh carnitas sandwich of slow-cooked pork with chopped peppers and chicharon bits (deep-fried pig skin) sprinkled on top. As long as you allow a year or two between sandwiches, your arteries should be fine.
Whether it’s Bangkok or Istanbul, Budapest or Hong Kong, I find food shops and markets among the most attractive and interesting places to visit. I’d be surprised if you don’t agree, so now that I’ve told you about some of my favorites, I’d like to hear about yours. And if they’re a secret, I promise not to tell anyone, aside from the zillions who read my blog.
Paula "I’ve got to drop eight pounds by beach time" Gifford