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Passport Newsletter — Sample Issue
Every month, Passport Newsletter, publishes insider information about the world's best and most interesting travel destinations. Written by more than 60 professional journalists resident around the world, our reports cover hotels, inns, resorts, spas, B&Bs, restaurants, shopping, cruises, safaris, specialty tours and adventure travel. Whether it's a $60 B&B room in northern California or a $1,500 suite in Venice, Passport Newsletter focuses on value for money. In Passport Newsletter you will read about the best in each of these categories, but you'll also learn about the fine dining restaurant in Paris that is ridiculously overpriced, the Roman restaurant that cannot be counted on to honor a reservation, the resort in Granada that has been advertising a non-existent spa and the hotel in Madrid where kitchen odors are vented through the air shaft next to the least expensive rooms. You'll discover where the locals like to dine and why and the names and locations of shops known only to locals or that carry the one-of-a-kind specialties that are perfect mementos of your most memorable travel experiences. Passport Newsletter is written for both the occasional and the habitual traveler—in fact for anyone who wants to experience the best in travel without wasting money. Nashville Dining Don't judge Nashville's restaurants by their nondescript, strip mall exteriors or, for that matter, their uninspired interiors either. It's common to encounter slate gray and russet walls, exposed fittings, low lights and an incessant revved up background beat. But realize, you're here to enjoy the food that's being put out by creative young chefs who will leave you with a good deal more than a vivid music scene to remember about the town. The newly opened Ombi merges the talents of chefs Kim Totzke and Laura Wilson who kick things off with their terrific starters ranging from curried turkey meatballs to truffle popcorn to foie gras. A main course of yellowfin tuna and vegetables in puff pastry is a standout. And for dessert, try pumpkin bread pudding or the artisan cheese plate. Or, you can sit at the bar opposite the open kitchen and chow down an eight-course chef's menu. The eclectic wine list includes such offerings as a New Zealand Spy Valley sauvignon blanc at $45. Dinner for two, before wine, about $80; chef's menu, $75 per person, including paired wines. 2214 Elliston Place. Tel: 615-320-5350. Single Diner Friendly. The Acorn, named for a symbol of southern hospitality, offers warm surroundings worth considering for a light, pre-concert meal of first courses-- almond encrusted calamari; acorn squash stuffed ravioli; bacon wrapped scallops; lump crab cakes--and salads. We erred in asking our waiter's advice on a particular main dish, and were stuck with an overcooked steak coated with melted cheese; as well as a salty, dry, grilled salmon. But if you stick with the starters, you'll do fine. Starters for two, with house wine, about $40. 114 28th Avenue North. Tel: 615-320-4399. www.theacornrestaurant.com. Macke's is a refreshingly tranquil spot on the second floor of a small, upscale shopping plaza. Its lunch offerings are tasty and include unusual takes on old favorites. The BLT is a lobster, bacon, goat cheese and tomato wrap with chipotle pepper dressing. The club sandwich is an open-face grilled scallop and avocado version served with applewood bacon, all atop a split sour dough roll. Be sure to order the creamy, mushroom risotto soup, if available. Lunch for two, before beverage, about $50. 2131 Bandywood Drive. Tel: 615-292-3838. For country music fans and anyone mildly curious about the genre, the Bluebird Café (set in yet another strip mall) is a must. The informal one-room, theater in the round, has been showcasing both well-known and upcoming Nashville singer-songwriters since 1982. During each 90-minute session, four songwriters perform in turn, occasionally adding improvised accompaniment and friendly chit-chat to the mix. Smoking is prohibited. Reservations recommended. Cover charge, at least $15 per person, as well as about a $7 per person food and beverage minimum. 4104 Hillsboro Road. Tel: 615-383-1461. www.bluebirdcafe.com.
It's difficult to pick up a travel publication these days without finding a piece on Buenos Aires, currently the Southern Hemisphere's hottest urban travel destination. The sun seems always to be bright, the parks green, the meat red and the soul of tango everywhere. Although it's true that the gastronomic scene is overwhelmingly dominated by grass-fed beef from the Pampas, various world cuisines have been making their appearance--in many cases with considerable success. If you ask the concierge at the upscale Alvear Palace Hotel where to go for meat, he'll mumble some of the big names in town, but if he's pressed, he'll confess that it's La Brigada where he himself dines. One of three restaurants of the same name, the flagship is a two-story parrilla (grill) in the San Telmo neighborhood, offering an extensive menu of meats ranging from bull testicles through sweetbreads to beef filets. The colita de cuadril (rump steak) is especially appealing. We like the downstairs dining room best, for its low ceiling and hewed beams. Service is known to be excellent--not always so in Buenos Aires. Dinner for two, before beverage, about $40. Estados Unidos 465. Tel: 54-4361-5557. www.labrigada.com. In the hip neighborhood known as Palermo Soho, you'll find the trendy Bar Uriarte. To get to your table, you walk in past an open kitchen where meat sizzles on the grill and vegetables are sautéing in iron pans. Opposite a long bar, couches are arranged with small tables for lounging with drinks or food; further back are the dining tables. The ribeye steak and grilled chicken are most popular, but the starter menu includes good thin-crust pizza and a variety of salads. Dinner for two, before beverage, about $35. Uriarte 1572. Tel: 54-4834-6004. www.baruriarte.com.ar. Not surprisingly, Tancat, one of the best spots in town for seafood, is Spanish. Moreover, it's always jammed, so much so that at lunch you're likely to have to dine at the long wooden bar instead of at a table or booth in the softly lit room. You can have wonderful roast suckling pig here, but if you want it, order as soon as you are seated; it goes quickly. There's a fine array of tapas, but whenever we dine here, it's on seafood. Try the filet of pez del sabor grilled to a moist perfection with a light green salad on the side; or the filet of salmon in black butter. Dinner for two, before beverage, about $25. Paraguay 645. Tel: 54-4312-5442. For more than 60 years, La Raya has been a Palermo neighborhood favorite. (There's a sister restaurant in San Telmo.) Currently it occupies the ground floor of a quiet, high-rise residential building, and draws a local clientele. Rarely mentioned in guide books, it serves some of the best beef in the city. The room is quiet at lunch but jammed at dinner, when all you see are white tablecloths crowded with bottles of wine and platters of meat. Lomo (a chop) on the bone is outstanding, and even though chorizo steak may be the most commonly served cut in the country, it's very good here. Starters include lamb tongues in vinaigrette; and hearts of lettuce salad. If their outstanding dark chocolate mousse isn't enough for dessert, ask for the classic drink served after a meat meal, the Don Pedro, which consists of several ounces of Scotch whiskey into which a large dollop of vanilla or chocolate ice cream has been dumped (setting teeth on edge throughout the Isle of Islay). Dinner for two, without beverage, about $40. Ortiz de Ocampo 2566. Tel: 54-4802-5763. On a major boulevard in the city center, Rotisería Miramar is one of those small, neighborhood spots where you can get away from grilled red meat--although not too far away. The braised oxtail stew is delicious, but if you're determined to avoid meat, you'll find excellent mussels provençal and boquerones (marinated sardines) on the short menu. The best tables are at the large windows that open onto the sidewalk. A top-flight selection of wines and liquors, stocked on the walls, is sure to include some surprises. Lunch or dinner for two, before wine, about $25. San Juan and Sarandi. Tel: 54-4304-4261. Another Palermo favorite is Bella Italia, one of the best Italian tables in the city even if, as with so many other BA restaurants, you catch it on a night when the service is exceptionally slow. The table settings are nicely set off by the exposed brick walls and hanging plants. Go for the pasta; the baked hearts of palm; the rabbit prepared hunter style; and what some call the best carpaccio in town. Dinner for two, before wine, about $40. República Arabe Siria 3330. Tel: 54-4802-4253. On the edge of downtown, close to Plaza San Martin, is a charming little room with only about 40 seats, simply but richly decorated in pegged wooden floors, fabric ceilings and with a tiny bar hidden at the rear. Bengal Restaurante, despite its name and the fact that it does serve Bengali specialties, is truly at its best with daily specials that range from seafoods (the ceviche is outstanding) to rich and flavorful lamb shoulder that's been braised for five hours. It's also notable that in this muted, decorous setting you'll find some of the best service in the city. Dinner for two, before beverage, about $40. Arenales 837. Tel: 54-4314-2926. There's no sign to let you know you've reached Almacén Secreto, just a honeysuckle-draped doorway with a number and a buzzer in the Palermo Hollywood neighborhood. Moreover, it's open for dinner only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings when Maria Morales Miy serves her limited menu of tasty dishes from northern Argentina's Salta region. There are 15 seats in the tiny room, a wood-burning stove in the corner and muted jazz on the sound system. If you're near a window, all you'll see is an undistinguished courtyard. But the place shines when the server carries out dishes such as charquisso (shredded beef with onions and hominy); or spicy chicken casserole with potatoes. Dinner for two, before wine or beer, about $25. Reservations essential. 1626 Humbolt. Tel: 54-4775-1271. La Cabrera is so popular that on many nights you'll see people standing outside waiting for tables while sipping glasses of red, white or sparkling wine provided by the house. Inside, there are exposed brick walls, occasionally surly waiters and lots of bustle. But the quality of the meat, and a unique serving concept, make up for all the inconvenience. With each main course come small bowls of side dishes such as horseradish-flavored cauliflower, pumpkin purée, garlic mashed potatoes and roasted garlic cloves. Exceptional salads and delicious chicken. Dinner for two, before wine, about $35. Cabrera 5099. Tel: 54-4831-7002.
Bangkok Update It's interesting to note the Thai Hotel Association recently reported there are roughly 5,000 hotels of all types in Thailand. In the luxury field, the Millennium Hilton, on the banks of the Chao Phraya river, is the latest hotel to open in the city. The hotel is a 32-story ultra contemporary property with 534 rooms, all with river views; of these, 54 are executive suites. After checking in at Hilton Crossings next to the River City mall and antiques center, guests are whisked across the river to the hotel by water taxi. The impressive lobby consists of a 12-story atrium with exquisite colored textiles, custom rugs and lamps designed by the Taipei design firm BARstudio. Rooms themselves are unusually laid out; all have curved walls and many enjoy open bathrooms. The furniture is contemporary, in keeping with the overall design. There's a full-service spa run by Banyan Tree with 10 treatment rooms on the main floor off the entry area. Other such amenities include a hair and nail salon and a retail aromatherapy shop. A business center on the 30th floor offers 10 conference rooms and a range of other facilities. One unusual attraction is the fourth-floor sand beach built up to the edge of an infinity pool. Five on-site restaurants and bars include the popular Zeta bar from London; a Chinese restaurant with its own Peking duck bar; and a 32nd floor club with a 360 degree view over downtown Bangkok. The waterfront restaurant Flow has a buffet lunch including a sushi bar and a spicy Thai section; selections are somewhat limited, but the quality is excellent. Be prepared for hovering waiters. Buffet lunch for two about $40. The hotel is located on the less popular side of the river and has few amenities nearby. Guests can reach the downtown area by taxi or via the skytrain; on the opposite side of the river, take the water taxi. Wheelchair accessible. Doubles from about $150. Tel: 800-445-8667. Fax: 66-2-442-2020. www.bangkok.com/millenniumhilton. Slowly but surely, small upscale boutique hotels are beginning to find a market in Bangkok. One extraordinary such property, located on the popular side of the Chao Phraya river in the heart of the Old City, is Chakrabongse Villas, situated in a small enclave that was part of a private estate built by a Thai prince in 1908. The current "villas" were recently built as three private luxury apartments with verandas overlooking the river. The best of the three is the Riverside Villa, but if that's not available, try for the Thai House. All rooms are air-conditioned and have full use of the extensive grounds and residence swimming pool. A private chef living at the main house can prepare dinners for resident guests in the riverside dining pavilion. In addition, the main house, complete with antique porcelain and early 20th century photographs, can be opened for specially arranged dinners seating from 12-25 guests. The property is located close to the Grand Palace, the Temple of the Dawn and the National Museum, and there's a private river launch to take guests to other river attractions. Rates, $150-200 per villa in high season (about 20 percent less in low season, May-September). 396 Maharaj Road. Tatien. Tel: 66-2-622-3356. Fax: 66-2-225-3861. www.thaivillas.com. The largest luxury shopping mall in Thailand, Siam Paragon, is easily reached from the Siam Square Skytrain station. In addition to more than 250 shops, the mall includes a variety of restaurants on the ground floor, an opera house, a bowling alley, a cineplex with an IMAX theater and a conference center. Built on the site of the old Intercontinental hotel, the complex contains a Paragon department store along with a wide array of high-end international brand shops. The second floor of the six-story structure gives access to Maserati, Lamborghini, Ferrari and other luxury auto dealerships. The fourth floor is labeled the "Passage to Asian Arts and Crafts," with more than 20 craft and gift shops. There's also a large Kinokuniya bookstore with a wide variety of English books, and on the fifth floor you'll find Chailai, an unusual jewelry and antique shop. We thought one of the best bets for lunch in the mall was L'Espace de Oriental, one of the restaurants run by the Oriental Bangkok. Try the crab salad and their version of New York vanilla cheesecake. Lunch for two, about $35. Tel: 66-2-610-9840. If you're traveling with children, Siam Ocean World is a worthwhile place to spend an hour or two. It's similar to the one based in Singapore, if you're familiar with that site. Some of the fish on view are species not normally seen in North America. There's a very interesting large central fish tank as well as smaller exhibits highlighting such species as giant crabs, sea snakes and sea jellies. For an additional charge, you can take a tour in a glass bottom boat. Entry fee, about $12 per person. Gift shop, of course.
Report from Paris Just a 10-minute cab ride from central Paris, La Grand Cascade is one of the most romantic restaurants in town. And now, with the arrival of talented new chef Frederic Robert, it's again a grand spot for a special night on the town. Originally built as a hunting pavilion for Napoleon III, the elegant dining room, with curved glass windows, overlooks a rolling lawn and has a magnificent awning. Crystal chandeliers and ornamental cast-iron work create a wonderful Belle Epoque atmosphere, and service from waiters in natty black jackets couldn't be more attentive. Robert, who previously cooked at Le Grand Vefour, Georges Blanc and Le Vivarois, brings a brilliant touch of contemporary creativity to the classical French style inspired by Escoffier. Try his stuffed cepes mushrooms with a garnish of chopped soft-boiled egg; roast duck with a pastilla of thigh meat and dried fruits; pork belly roasted with mace and garnished with glazed baby turnips; and luscious desserts including a puff pastry filled with black fig marmalade and served with cinnamon ice cream. Cheeses come from the star fromagers, Quatrehommes; and a helpful and very approachable sommelier animates one of the best wine lists in Paris. Dinner for two, before wine, about $225. Allee de Longchamp, Bois de Boulogne (16th). Tel: 33-1-4527-3351. Before he moved to Los Angeles for a decade, chef Gilles Epié was one of the brightest young talents in Paris. Now he's back and has opened Citrus Etoile, a very pleasant contemporary French table not far from the Arc de Triomphe. His American wife, Elizabeth, runs the dining room, and her hard work and outgoing personality have made it a popular address with the Paris beau monde, who come here to dine well in unstuffy comfort. Epié's cooking is outstanding, with a subtly Californian influence that makes it light and modern. Try his starter of oysters with baby leeks and fresh mint; or marinated salmon with grated celery root; and then opt for the unusual but very good steamed calf's liver with a garnish of tofu and baby cucumbers; or braised rabbit with baby spinach. The dessert not to miss is the cocoa soufflé with vanilla-bean spiked whipped cream. And the 2002 Château de Pibarnon Comte de Saint Victor côtes de Provence is a perfect choice to accompany Epié's cooking. Wheelchair accessible. Dinner for two, before wine, about $140. 6 rue Arsène-Houssaye (8th). Tel: 33-1-4289-1551. It had been a long time since we last dined at D'Chez Eux, the venerable and very stylish bistro just behind Les Invalides, so it's a pleasure to report that almost nothing has changed. The gracious hospitality of owner Jean-Pierre Court, one of the best restaurateurs in town, remains unfailing, as does the good humor of the waiters dressed in blue cotton smocks. And on a winter night in Paris, there are few places that provide such a satisfying meal in such a pleasant setting. Start with the legendary hors d'oeuvres cart, but restrain yourself, as it's easy to overindulge on this superb selection. Or, if you'd rather not be tempted, try the excellent escargots, frog's legs à la proveçale, or foie gras. Then choose between such house specialties as cassoulet, confit de canard, a superb côte de boeuf, or the daily special, which may be a treat such as scallops cooked in their shells. Don't pass up the dessert cart either, as it's a grandmotherly feast that includes chocolate mousse, prunes in wine, and a fine Paris Brest (a ring-shaped, cream-filled pastry sprinkled with almonds and powdered sugar). This is the perfect eating place for nights when you're inclined to give in to temptation. Wheelchair accessible. Dinner for two, before wine, about $140. 2 avenue Lowendal (7th). Tel: 33-1-4705-5255. Porthault, the famous French house of luxury bed linens, has opened an elegant boutique on the chic Avenue Montaigne. It carries their entire collection, including the double rose patterned sheets beloved of the late Duchess of Windsor and the violet pattern Jackie Kennedy preferred. Some of the stock is available only at this address. Porthault sheets have been the choice of European royalty since the company opened in 1920. 50 avenue Montaigne (8th). Tel: 33-1-4720-7525. Fragonard, founded in the Provençal town of Grasse in 1926, is one of the most venerable perfume houses in France. Now they've opened their fifth Parisian address, offering their full line of fragrances, candles, oils and more. And this is the only shop where you will find the company's Confidential line of boudoir wear. 203 rue Saint Honore (1st). Tel: 33-1-4703-0707.
St. Maarten/St. Martin St. Maarten/St. Martin, the small Caribbean island that belongs to two nations, the Netherlands and France, considers itself "The Cuisine Capital" of the Caribbean. There's a formal border between the French and Dutch sides, but for the visitor it's all but meaningless. A heady mix of 70 or so nationalities and cultures coexist seemingly quite happily, and there appear to be restaurants representing all of them, with the French leading the way. Among about 400 eating places along the two-lane road ringing the island you'll find a choice of cuisines from Amsterdam to Vietnam. There's no shortage of beaches either, or duty-free shopping opportunities, but if you're looking for a top luxury resort or hotel, your choice is limited. Frugal European visitors apparently don't demand them and the 1.4 million cruise ship passengers who flock to the port of Phillipsburg, capital of the Dutch side, don't need them. Hotels--La Samanna, part of the Orient-Express luxury empire, is one of the world's best resorts and the undisputed cream of the crop here. There's a distinct Mediterranean feel to La Samanna, which overlooks one of the island's best beaches. It's located on 55 acres and is only a few minutes from the airport and the French capital of Marigot. The hotel's $90 round-trip luxury car service from and to the airport is well worth the price because of the island's narrow roads and traffic. Moreover, the service includes expedited baggage handling and customs clearance when you arrive or check-in upon leaving. Baggage can be slow to come through, so the driver may suggest taking you to the hotel while another staffer waits to collect your bags and bring them to La Samanna. The resort's best accommodations are its suites, all of which have terraces or patios, some with private plunge pools. If you're not in a suite, you'll find the "deluxe" oceanview rooms to be nicely appointed but tight for two people. Room amenities meet expectations except for the fact that in-room Internet access is dial up; faster service is available elsewhere in the hotel. Recreational facilities include an excellent Elysées spa, tennis, a fitness center, water sports and a Pilates studio. Food service in the open-air dining room is remarkably good for resort dining. We enjoyed a dinner of smoked sea scallop salad; Sechuan pepper-crusted double lamb chops; and the Island Delight dessert, consisting of chocolate-coated iced coconut filled with caramelized mango and papaya. Dinner for two, before wine, about $160. Ocean doubles from about $900. Tel: 800-854-2252. Fax: 212-575-7039. www.lasamanna.com. La Esmeralda Resort consists of 65 rooms situated in one-story island-style cottages constructed in groups of four, each group with its own pool. It's not a top-class property (buildings and interiors can use refurbishing), but there's a nice beach, and the restaurant, L'Astrolabe, is pretty good. Oceanfront rooms are worth their premium. Two tennis courts and a once-a-week tennis clinic; many other recreational activities are at extra cost. (Club Orient, at the far end of Orient Beach, is a 137-room clothing-optional resort.) Doubles from about $240. Baie Orientale. Tel: 800-622-7836. Dining--One of the island's best French restaurants, in a delightful open-air spot at Marina La Port Royale, at Margot, is Le Chanteclair. Cecile Briaud-Richard serves up such dishes as savory mahi-mahi on a bed of risotto or roasted whole local lobster crusted with herbs. Dinner for two, without wine, about $140. Tel: 590-590-87-9460. www.lechanteclair.com. Temptation, located at the Atlantis Casino, is a dining surprise. Under the direction of its owner/chef, Dino Jagtiani, the first St. Maarten-born graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, it's become a worthwhile destination in its own right. Our butternut squash bisque was superb; the duck l'orange medallions were flavorsome but a bit crunchy; and the combination dish of pulled braised short ribs and imported Maine lobster so good it made us forget our "surf 'n turf" aversion. The passion fruit and vanilla-flavored sorbet makes a nice finish. Entries on the competent wine list include a Wine Spectator Magazine rating. Dinner for two, before wine, about $120. Tel: 590-599-545-2254. www.nouveaucaribbean.com. Tips--Island officials still haven't dealt with their terrible road system. The two-lane road that circles the island is seriously inadequate, potholed and subject to traffic delays stemming from over-development. Nevertheless, if you're going to rent a car, do so at the airport. Every kind of water sport you can imagine is available on St. Martin/St. Maartin, but forget about golf. The island's single course has only a few holes. In keeping with the island's two dominant cultures, there are two Carnivals, before Lent on the French side, and after Easter on the Dutch. French Saint Martin uses euros, while the Sint Maarten side deals in the Dutch guilder. But U.S. dollars are freely accepted, and English is spoken everywhere. We've recently been sampling restaurants in the Vancouver suburb of Richmond, an affluent suburban "Chinatown" where the population is more than 50 percent Asian. The area includes a growing number of upmarket Asian dining rooms--first-rate restaurants that would be right at home in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Taipei or Tokyo--that cater to the community and to appreciative visitors. Richmond, where the region's international airport is located, is about a 25-minute drive from downtown Vancouver. Many top dining rooms are tucked away in strip malls or shopping centers. At the Sea Harbour Seafood Restaurant, the modest exterior looks like a former gas station, but inside, it's all Hong Kong elegance. The polished staff offers hot towels and finger bowls as well as informed advice on what seafood and vegetables are freshest. We loved the giant prawns brought live to the table, whisked away to be simply steamed, then served with a light soy dipping sauce. Another don't-miss dish is the unusual mix of crisp-tender chayote squash paired with pork and tangy preserved vegetables. Also try the brilliantly green pea leaves with sliced bean curd sheets and ginkgo nuts. Reservations are recommended. Dinner for two, before beverage, about $80. 3711 No. 3 Road. Tel: 604-232-0816. As tranquil as its name suggests, Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine offers some of the most distinctive food in Richmond, served on fine china by a solicitous staff. Hidden on the second floor of a mini-mall, this attractive restaurant is popular with Asian businesspeople and couples celebrating special occasions. We started our meal with an inventive salad of jellyfish, grapefruit and apples--the crisp and citrusy fruits balancing the spicy jellyfish. A creamy Japanese pumpkin soup was so good, we wanted to lick the bowl; and fresh Dungeness crab, steamed in a mild garlic sauce, was delicious. An eggy crème brûlée ended the meal on a sweet note. If you call ahead, chef Sam Lau can customize a meal to your preferences. Dinners are prix-fixe only, starting at $80 for two, without drinks. 2015-8580 Alexandra Road. Tel: 604-233-0077. Book in advance at the lively Shanghai River Restaurant, or you'll join the multiple generations of Chinese families waiting for a table. Along one wall of the cavernous dining room is an open kitchen where chefs prepare handmade noodles and dumplings, including excellent xiao long bao (steamed pork buns also known as soup dumplings) that release a fragrant broth when you nibble off their tops. We loved the braised cabbage with smoky Chinese ham and recommend any of the noodle dishes. Dinner for two, before beverage, about $50. 110-7831 Westminster Highway. Tel: 604-233-8885. We were unimpressed by the bright fluorescent lighting and colorless ambiance at Sushikan, the first North American branch of an upmarket Tokyo-based chain. Fortunately, if you overlook the drab setting in the Aberdeen Centre mall, the sushi and sashimi are quite good. Our chirashi bowl had a tasty assortment of fresh fish, and we enjoyed the "tofu salad"--squares of creamy tofu topped with dried anchovies and sprouts. Sit at the sushi bar for more personal attention from the chefs. Dinner for two, before beverage, from about $60. Aberdeen Centre, 2790-4151 Hazelbridge Way. Tel: 604-295-6612. Adjacent to Sushikan, but in a more appealing space with an open kitchen, Northern Delicacy draws stylish young people for its small plates of Northern Chinese specialties. The photo-filled menu makes ordering easy, and the dishes, priced individually and designed to be shared, are generally under $10 each. Start with a cold appetizer--perhaps spicy cabbage or shredded jellyfish--along with some freshly steamed vegetable buns or pan-fried chive dumplings. The silky braised pork belly is an ultimate comfort food, and you can't go wrong with sautéed baby bok choy. Dinner for two, before drinks, about $40. Aberdeen Centre, 2788-4151 Hazelbridge Way. Tel: 604-233-7050. Richmond abounds in places to enjoy a dim sum lunch, but few of them follow the custom of carts circling the room. Instead, after you order from a bilingual menu, dishes are brought hot from the kitchen. It's also acceptable to order by discretely pointing to appealing items on nearby tables. One of our favorite dim sum places is the Shiang Garden Seafood Restaurant, another Hong Kong style spot that serves a mix of classic and contemporary dim sum dishes. Your best bet here is to see what everyone else is eating or to ask the staff for suggestions. Come before 11 a.m. to avoid a wait--especially on weekends. Lunch for two, before drinks, about $30. 4540 No. 3 Road (set back from the main thoroughfare). Tel: 604-273-8858. If you prefer more traditional dim sum, including steamed shrimp dumplings (har gow) and BBQ pork buns (char siu bao), go to Gingeri Chinese Cuisine. The highlights of our meal here were pan-fried pork buns topped with sesame seeds; steamed choy sum with oyster sauce; and pan-fried noodles with bean sprouts. Don't let them seat you in a far corner, or you may have to stand up and wave at the busy staff (as we did) to get their attention. Lunch for two, before beverage, about $30. Landsdowne Centre, 323-5300 No. 3 Road. Tel: 604-278-6006. For a Shanghainese take on dim sum, look for the classy Xian Heng in the Brighouse Square shopping plaza. The tables, with their red and gold chairs, are widely spaced, making the room quiet enough for conversation. Our favorite dish was the hearty rice cake noodles with pickled vegetables, and we also recommend the soup-filled xiao long bao (called "juicy dumplings" here). For something sweeter and more unusual, sample the gelatinous pumpkin cake. Lunch for two, before drinks, about $30. 7-6340 No. 3 Road. Tel: 604-278-0709.
Marquis Los Cabos
Baja's Marquis Los Cabos provides an easy to reach, oceanfront getaway in a spectacular setting. The resort, opened in 2003, is located on The Corridor running along Mexico's Sea of Cortez, and is closer to the colonial town of San Jose del Cabo than to the more Americanized town of Cabo San Lucas. On arrival, you transition from arid desert to seaside via an arching, open-air lobby adorned with dramatic bronze sculptures by Latin American artists. Together with striking artwork, water plays a major role in the hotel's design. Two gently curving infinity pools near the beach seem to spill onto the sand below, and a third pool lies beneath a 36-foot waterfall that cascades from the lobby level. The hotel's 237 rooms include 28 casitas in two-story duplexes, each with a private plunge pool, either at ground level or on the rooftop. Five master suites also have individual pools. All guest rooms offer balconies or patios facing the surf, best viewed from levels 3, 4 and 5. The décor is contemporary Mexican with marble floors, wooden wardrobes and ersatz headboards made of stones inlaid in the wall. Mattresses can be flipped to accommodate soft or hard bedding preferences. An archway in the sleeping area opens to the bathroom's hydro-massage tub, allowing you to see out to the ocean while you soak. There's also a separate shower, two sinks, robes, slippers and Bulgari toiletries. Each morning, coffee, rolls and fruit are discreetly placed in a niche beside the front door. The idea has merit, but if you don't take it in quickly, your coffee will cool. Dinner in the 20-seat Canto del Mar is a highlight, created by Michelin two-star chef Thierry Dufour. A set menu changes every four days, usually including some of Dufour's best, such as chilled lobster with asparagus on organic greens; and veal medallion with truffle risotto. Dinner for two, before wine, about $130. Less can be spent in two other casual restaurants on site, with satisfying if less lofty results. Recreational facilities include a first-rate spa with six outdoor whirlpools, a gym, deep-sea fishing and two excellent golf courses. Wheelchair accessible. Doubles, from about $440 (winter season) plus a $35 resort fee. Carretera Transpeninsular Km. 21.5. Tel: 877-238-9399 or 800-223-6800. www.marquisloscabos.com.
Cape Town Dining Stars
Food service in Cape Town, South Africa has had its ups and downs, with a few highly touted places having disappointed. Happily, though, there are two new tables we can recommend without hesitation. South African super-chef Bruce Robertson is now doing his dazzling turn at his newest locale, The Showroom. It's near the waterfront, where the glitter begins when you enter into a collage of white walls bordering a showroom window, beyond which sits a brace of Lamborghinis. The two-story, 65-seat spot, where Robertson will be on duty most nights in the open kitchen, offers food that's complicated in flavors and textures, but not to the extent that you'll fail to appreciate dishes such as prawn poppers, created with medallions of monkfish, scallop liver and crawfish cream; or a duck tagine with orange fritters and glazed onions. Desserts are fabulous--try the apple tart tartin with fudge almonds. The restaurant is certainly close to--if not the--best high-end dining in the city. Wheelchair accessible. Dinner for two, before wine, about $60. 10 Hospital St. Tel: 27-21-421-4682. We're also high on 95 Keerom, a block off Long Street downtown, with seats for some 120 diners on two floors. We've found the upstairs room too noisy, so we always choose the middle room downstairs, between the rock walls, for quiet and intimacy (parts of the building date from 1693). The food is first-rate contemporary Milanese, beginning with an Italian bean salad and moving on to any of the daily handmade pastas, and then a beefsteak Fiorentina for two. Wheelchair accessible. Dinner for two, with house wine, about $55. 95 Keerom Street. Tel: 27-21-422-0765.
Yangshuo, China
Yangshuo is a busy market town with a population of 300,000 and wall-to-wall shopping. It comes to life with the arrival of the tourist boats in mid-afternoon and continues with night markets that are open until 11 p.m. Food at the restaurants along West Street is excellent, and if you feel it's time for a change from Chinese fare, there are also a wide variety of western menus on offer. Most visitors only stay overnight, returning to Guilin by bus or train the following morning, but the area is agreeable and some people stop over for a couple of days, exploring the surrounding villages on rented bikes or unwinding with some self-indulgent pampering. Foot massages cost as little as $1, and an hour's full-body massage, $10. The only international-class place to stay in Yangshuo is the Paradise Resort Hotel. Set in pleasant grounds, bordering a small lake and just off the main street in the center of town, it has 145 rooms and suites--large enough and reasonably comfortable, with views onto either the lake or a courtyard garden. Facilities include an outdoor pool and a fitness center. Doubles from about $60. 116 West Street, Yangshuo, Guilin, Guanxi. Tel: 86-773-882-2109. Fax: 86-773-882-2106. www.paradiseyangshuo.com.
VISA Report: India - Part III
The best time to visit India is from October to March. In Delhi, for example, daytime temperatures range from the high 70s to low 80s and get progressively higher as you go south. Mornings and evenings are chilly in the North, while Mumbai, Kolkata and cities at that latitude are always sunny and humid. April and May are hot (100-120 degrees F.), and then come the monsoons. The British presence in India originated in Calcutta (Kolkata) in the late 17th century; the city's many regal colonial buildings resemble the stately government and commercial buildings in today's London. Contrary to much of what is said about Kolkata, we've found it to be one of the cleanest and best organized of India's cities. Most streets are paved and have sidewalks, the traffic is orderly and there are no cows. There are beggars and squatter areas of course, particularly in those parts of town largely populated by Bangladeshi refugees, some of them reduced to living in the streets, but this is a small section of the city. By and large, Kolkata is a big, thriving metropolis with many architecturally stunning buildings, huge parks, modern bridges spanning the Ganges river, colorful old neighborhoods with fabulous houses--many in various stages of decay--and, most noticeably, air pollution--the air quality is atrocious. Kolkata is considered to be a center of art and theater and is the home of many of the country's leading intellectuals. It is India's second largest city, after Mumbai, and is the location of many churches, tombs, temples and monuments, a polo ground, cricket fields and old tram cars. The street life, especially in and around the bazaars and markets, is exciting and endlessly fascinating. Food--Although much of Indian food is quite spicy, there are always alternatives. In the cities, you'll find any type of world cuisine you might fancy, particularly Asian, Middle Eastern and African. Food service in the major hotels runs the gamut from burgers and fried chicken to fine French fare. Well-prepared Indian food is wonderful, but recognize that even if you ask for it to be only lightly spiced--or not spiced at all--it's likely to be spicier than you're used to. If you order a yogurt-based fruit or mint raita, it will do much to cut the heat. Another tempering accompaniment is a sweet yogurt lassi drink. Indian yogurt is fresh and delicious, and so is the ice cream. Vast amounts of fresh fruits and vegetables are offered everywhere-- including most hotel rooms--but be careful about eating anything uncooked or unpeeled anywhere but in the best hotels. Indian white wines are, at best, drinkable. Tea and soft drinks are ubiquitous, but other than at better hotels, diet soda is not common. Good coffee can be difficult to find outside your hotel. Water can be a problem. Never consume tap water or gargle in the shower; brush your teeth with bottled water, which is in good supply. Virtually all hotels offer good breakfast buffets, included in the room price; many also have buffet lunches, at extra cost. Room service breakfasts include the same choice of foods as the buffet, but a service charge will be added. Room service at top hotels is efficient, sometimes more so than dining room table service, in our experience. But we've been told many times that the fault lies in the kitchen, not with the servers. Perhaps this is just another example of the "all in good time" attitude that one encounters frequently throughout India (and that it pays to adopt oneself while here). At restaurants and hotel dining rooms, a table tip of about 10 percent, in cash, is expected. Flying--Except for Kolkata, major city airports are not in good shape, although the government has undertaken a program to upgrade many of them. Only at Kolkata can you assume there will be escalators in the terminals and covered jetways. Airport toilets are tolerable, but carry your own tissue, and tip the attendant 10 rupees (about 20 cents). Don't expect lounges for first- and business-class passengers on internal flights; as with the overall airport improvement program, they're promised, but not available yet. Expect multiple security checks at all airports, including body wandings and pat-downs. Hand luggage must be tagged and presented for inspection several times. Everything will be x-rayed more than once. In addition to items prohibited on American planes, Indian security will confiscate all flashlights and loose batteries. Keep your boarding card throughout your flights and until you are off the plane. In addition to your passport, you'll need a visa to visit India. When flying within the country, you do not need to show a passport at boarding, and luggage handling on these internal flights is reliable; in numerous trips throughout the country, we've never had a bag misdirected or lost. Make sure every piece of luggage has your name on it as well as a brightly colored strap for easy identification. India's Jet Airways is a reliable carrier that flies new and comfortable planes to several dozen internal destinations. Business-class service is excellent; a meal is always served, even on flights of less than an hour. Kingfisher, a relatively new internal airline, was established to compete with Jet Airways, but we've not had the opportunity to use it. Our experience with Alliance Air, a subsidiary of Air India, was unfortunate. It offers one class of service on an ancient plane that smelled as if they'd been ferrying camels. Air India's own business class is acceptable, although not the equal of Jet Air. For the most part, flights took off and arrived on schedule and without exception on all the carriers we've flown. Personnel are very competent. Dress--In cities, rarely will you see an adult Indian woman wearing anything but a sari; in rural areas, native dress is common. Adult men generally wear slacks and button shirts, no jeans or T-shirts, and most adult Indians do not wear baseball caps. Shorts are out; don't even bring them. The same is true for short skirts and sleeveless or tank tops. Bright colors are fine (pink is the navy blue of India; white is the color for widows). Cotton is the ideal fabric, and laundry and dry cleaning are done quickly at all hotels, but the quality of the work can be disappointing. It's not a bad idea to take things you don't want to keep, and give them away as you go along or before you return home; there is no shortage of people who will take them, and they'll be appreciated. Hotel restaurants are casual, so unless you're invited to a special dinner at someone's home, you won't need dressy clothes. If you do get an invitation, men are expected to wear jacket and tie: pants are acceptable for women. Good walking shoes are a must. Do not take sandals; dirt and dust are ubiquitous wherever you go and most toilet floors are very wet. You'll have to remove your shoes before entering a temple, so it's a good idea to bring a largish supply of throwaway gym socks to wear inside the temple. Some museums will not allow large purses to be brought inside; a fanny pack is a good alternative for these occasions. You might want a scarf to cover your nose during rickshaw rides as it gets very dusty. Don't bother bringing a shawl, as pashminas are sold everywhere. In the North, there can be a considerable variance in temperature from early morning to midday, so clothing that can be worn in layers is a good idea. Shopping--The quantity and variety of handcrafted merchandise in India is an endless temptation. Shopping--by which we mean bargaining--can be an enjoyable experience, if you don't take it too seriously. Bargaining is expected everywhere except in some government-sponsored facilities. Also, when someone is asking you for the equivalent of $2 for a handcrafted item, it seems unreasonable to try to pay less. But for items such as jewelry and carpets, always bargain, even in the best places. It can be a lot of fun if you know the rules, and everyone smiles at the end; you and the seller both know you are playing the game. Walking away usually works well. If you want to get reasonable value for what you spend, it's important to have some knowledge about the merchandise you're considering. Unless a guide has been recommended by a trustworthy source, depending on him or her for introductions and recommendations can be unreliable. Current U.S. Customs regulations do not impose a duty on handicrafts or unset, uncut gemstones. However there is a significant charge (as much as 35 percent) for bringing in fine jewelry. For current regulations, see www.cbp.gov. Tips--To learn if immunizations will be necessary, check with www.cdc.gov/travel for current advice. Anti-malarial medication, Hepatitis A booster, polio vaccine and tetanus booster are usually required. Get your medical work finished a month or two before you go in case you have a reaction. You'll enjoy your visit much more if you pack several convenience items. Take a large supply of alcohol-based hand-wipes in small packets; they are more effective than liquid hand cleaner. Insect repellent and after-bite treatments can be helpful, although we've rarely been bitten even though there were mosquitoes everywhere. Travel packs of toilet tissue and other tissues are essential; never go into a public toilet without your own supply. In addition to your usual travel pharmacy, take much more Imodium and Pepto-Bismol than you think you'll need, as well as Cipro (for intestinal problems); antihistamines, nasal spray and throat lozenges (to counteract the effects of air pollution). Although it's unlikely you'll have to worry about malaria, it's a good idea to take along an anti-malarial medication, such as Malarone. Hair spray seems to be unavailable in India so if you must use it, be sure you bring enough. But keep the use of perfume and other scented items to a minimum, as they may attract insects. Packets of travel laundry soap are essential for washing out items in your room. We recommend taking one toothbrush for every day of your trip, and throwing them out as you go along. A small flashlight may come in handy, as will a roll of transparent tape for repairing torn money, which shopkeepers don't like to accept. All of the better hotels have hair dryers. Electric current converters are essential, but hotels will supply them if you forget to bring your own. Hotel rooms have electric coffee/tea-makers and packets of instants. Bring along a good supply of snacks and chocolate bars; you can always give away any leftovers. If you visit any small or remote villages, the children will probably ask for pens, so if you wish, bring plenty. Major credit cards are accepted everywhere. Take travelers checks and exchange them for rupees (Rs) only at your hotel, not at the airport nor on the street. As one rupee is worth only about two cents bring along a large wallet to hold the wad you'll get with each exchange; you'll find 500Rs notes most convenient. Keep your exchange receipt so you can sell back your unused rupees at the airport before your leave; you cannot exchange rupees outside of India. Keep some 10Rs notes handy at all times for bathroom and other attendant tips. Clean your hands often when handling the money. India's most wonderful attractions are its people. They are invariably friendly and as curious about you as you are about them. You'll find them openly staring at you, but not with any hostility or ill feeling. Young children, especially in the countryside and villages, will point at you and may ask to have their picture taken with you. People are nonjudgmental; you'll feel safe and unthreatened on the street. Crime involving visitors is very low, as the government imposes swift and severe penalties. Your biggest worry may well be how to cross a street without getting killed. Never assume a crosswalk is a safety zone. We always remember the advice of a guide we had in Mumbai, who cautioned us always to walk, not run, across a street, as drivers will be obliged not to hit you and will adjust their speed accordingly. But if you change your mind or pace while crossing, you're fair game. Despite the seemingly chaotic traffic scene, in the four weeks of our most recent visit, we saw only one accident. But the best driving advice for a visitor is don't. The 15-mile stretch of magnificent beaches, architectural confections, and aspiring restaurants at the east end of Long Island, simply called the Hamptons, is irresistibly appealing. The vivid palette of the skies, especially gorgeous in early morning and at sunset, will entrance you. Enjoy them, as they're one of the few free attractions to look at. Everything else comes at a price, usually a stiff one. In most cases, what you see from the road is no indication of what's hidden away down long, serpentine driveways. Like a foreign bazaar the Hamptons packs a lot into the 15-mile stretch of the Montauk Highway that counts, from Southampton eastward to Amagansett. Montauk, largely a lively fishing port at the absolute east end of Long Island, is another 10 miles or so beyond Amagansett, with a glorious lighthouse as its signature. (Exclude from any Hamptons definition the town of Westhampton.) What to Expect--Traffic permitting, you can reach the Hamptons in little more than a two-hour drive from Manhattan or a one-hour drive from Islip/MacArthur Airport. The main Hampton season is Memorial Day to Labor Day with July and particularly August the peak months. But the area is also wonderful in the spring and especially so in the fall when there are fewer people crowding sports and shopping facilities, and the weather is brisk and temperate. Rental properties are considerably less expensive in the "shoulder" seasons. But if you want a house in the peak season, you'll have to start early, as much as a year ahead, or at the latest, in January. There are those who habitually wait until the last minute in hopes of getting a bargain, and sometimes they do. But it's chancy. Celebrity watching is a major sport at the best Hampton restaurants and at the weekly run of $100-to-$1,000 charity events. Abstract expressionist painter William de Kooning long ago helped make the Hamptons a magnet for talented artists. For a time Truman Capote was the leader of the literary pack in Sagaponack, an enclave with a Currier & Ives look. Sag Harbor, the whaling port five miles north, was John Steinbeck's home for many years, and the children of celebrities carry on their involvement, as with Julie Andrews's daughter Emma, whose Bay Street Theatre in Sag Harbor has a year-round schedule of revivals, premieres and classic film showings, frequently with actors and directors on hand for questions. Hampton Hamlets--This brief tour through the Hampton communities is meant to indicate the distinctive personality of each one. If you'd like to make such a tour yourself, figure on a two-hour drive from Manhattan, if traffic is good, to reach Route 27, the Montauk Highway at the western end of the Hamptons. Southampton is Palm Beach North with touches of Newport. You're simply out of the loop if you're not a member or guest of one of the clubs--the very exclusive Bathing Corporation (no golf or tennis, just food and beach with a Mission-style clubhouse), the Bath & Tennis Club and the tennis-and-beach Meadow Club, or one of the several tony golf clubs such as Shinnecock Hills (which has hosted the U. S. Open). It's a town of mega-dealers with mega wealth. The women in their Lilly Pulitzers shop at Saks at the north end of Main Street and outstanding jewelry stores such as Hollis Reh & Shariff on Job's Lane. Southamptonites have a special flair for collecting and driving around in vintage convertibles. But there's serious art as well. For instance, a recent show devoted to Roy Lichtenstein was held at the small but superior Parrish Art Museum. Continuing east, laid-back Bridgehampton is horse country, potato fields and New England picture book residences. The locals like to breakfast at the Candy Kitchen on a corner along the highway. Summer renters browse the nearby excellent interiors shops. In the '90s, some of the most solvent Hamptonites founded the Atlantic Golf Club on Bridgehampton's northerly Scuttlehole Road. Another hot spot is Marders, a haven for gardening buffs. (Not long ago, they were asked to plant a 40-foot beech tree. The tab was $95,000.) In August there's a string of Mercedes-Benz-sponsored polo matches on Saturday afternoons, with some of Argentina's best players and some of the Hamptons's most fashionably dressed women partying under the VIP tent. And the horsey set tops it off with the annual Hampton Classic Horse Show staged just before Labor Day. East Hampton has been judged one of the prettiest villages in America. It's also a town that preserves the last remnants of Hamptonian social cleavage--only homes "south o' the highway" have upper-class status. The establishment that lords it over some of East Hampton's most manicured estates is the seaside Maidstone Club. With its main stone building and golf course set on rolling greenery, it looks for all the world like a patch of English countryside. But regardless of the length of any club member's pedigree, older by centuries are the vestiges of the Gardiner family, prominently positioned in the cemetery by the picturesque pond you pass as you enter the village. Their ancestor Lion Gardiner obtained a charter from Charles I for the renowned 3,350-acre island situated between the easternmost ends of Long Island's north and south forks. Gardiner paid the Montaukett Indians five pounds sterling for the island in 1639. On the Montauk Highway--Main Street, to East Hamptonites--you can see the village's signature windmill in the distance. And a few steps beyond the town pond stands the Guild Hall, now a performance venue for a rich variety of arts programs. Angling some four miles northeast of East Hampton's windmill lands you in The Springs, haven for many of the Hamptons's oil painters, water-colorists and sculptors. Few can resist the area's attractive flora, its lazy inlets and low rents, and its light, which is as seductive as the skies of Paris. The long list of visual artists who lived and worked here includes Jackson Pollock and his wife, Lee Krasner. Their house is now open as the Pollock-Krasner Museum. Amagansett is a small village of large reputations. Celebrities in publishing, the movies, TV and fashion have gravitated to it in recent years. You're quite likely to run into one or another at the Farmer's Market. (No "leave your money in the can" here; it's a pricey foodist's delight.) Take a peek at Charles Gwathmey's breakthrough box-and-silo house design on Bluff Road. Get your Hampton friends to invite you to the classy Devon Yacht Club, where the restaurant (with view) is as upscale as the boating. Or go down to the Coast Guard beach for a swim near the spot where a Nazi submarine disgorged four German spies in 1942, eventually caught as they arrived in New York's Pennsylvania Station. East of the main Hamptons, in the desolate sands and pine hills, there's another clutch of perhaps a bit contrarian VIPs who prefer the surroundings of Long Island's most distant community, Montauk. (The next eastward landfall is the coast of Ireland.) The town of Montauk itself looks rather tawdry, in part the evidence of unfulfilled aspirations. Nearly a century ago, there were grandiose plans to dock transatlantic ocean liners here and bring passengers to New York by train. There also were plans to open the town to casino gambling. Neither of these dreams materialized, and today, the town's claim to fame is as a charter fishing port, a surfing beach and even as the place from which you can mount up and ride out to the lighthouse at land's end, a handsome white beacon that was commissioned by George Washington. On the way to the fishing port, stop at the Lobster Roll, a shack patronized by appreciative hordes. The rollercoaster Old Montauk Highway leads up to Gurney's Inn, a not-quite resort with the best lofty ocean views and best spa treatments in the Hamptons. Dining--The cost of dining out in the Hamptons is somewhat lower than you would find at comparable restaurants in Manhattan, but still not a bargain. Here's a selection from among the three-dozen or so of the Hamptons best culinary contenders: Wei Fun is a streamlined pure white property with top Asian-American cuisine, especially the sweet-and-sour pork; and lobster wei fun on wide noodles with black beans and garlic. Dinner for two, before beverage, about $80. 203 Pantigo Road, East Hampton. Tel: 631-329-2600. We agree with the generally held opinion that the expertly done steaks at the Palm Restaurant, located in the Huntting Inn (circa 1699) are better than those at any of the chain's other locations. No surprises, as everything here is well prepared and served. Dinner for two, before wine, about $120. The Huntting Inn, 94 Main Street, East Hampton. Tel: 631-324-0411. Rowdy Hall is a good burger bistro and bar, where a meal for two, including beverage, is about $60. 10 Main Street, East Hampton. Tel: 631-324-8555. The original Bobby Van's was a hangout for the literati, including Truman Capote and Harper Lee's editor Willie Morris. But even without their good gossip the steakhouse has a smart bar scene along with attractive trappings and a dusky glow that keep the customers coming back. Dinner for two, before wine, about $110. 2393 Main Street, Bridgehampton. Tel: 631-537-0590. World Pie features delicious brick-oven pizzas, terrific salads and a welcoming outdoor patio with live music during weekend brunches. A meal for two, about $50. 2402 Montauk Highway, Bridgehampton. Tel: 631-537-7999. Sant Ambroeus is a café recognized as being so good even cliché club golfers will forego a Cobb salad to sample the delicate Northern Italian cuisine. Dinner for two, before wine, about $120. 30 Main St., Southampton. Tel: 631-283-1233. Before the Hamptons became a hit, farms that raised Long Island ducks were an attractive part of the east end landscape. Even today, you can enjoy a half duck with apple stuffing along with other everyday fare at John Duck Jr's, an unpretentious fourth-generation refuge. Dinner for two, before beverage, about $40. 15 Prospect Street, Southampton. Tel: 631-283-0311. For many regulars, Dave's Grill is the place to eat in the fishing ambiance of Montauk. No flash or glitter, but expertly prepared fish dishes, including moist potato-crusted flounder; tuna tartare; or linguine with clam sauce. Dinner for two, before beverages, about $100. 468 West Lake Drive, Montauk. Tel: 631-668-9190. The clubby dining rooms of the American Hotel make up one of the Hamptons's finest restaurants. The food is French-American, the wine remarkable and the service old-fashioned but kindly. Dinner for two, before wine, about $130. 49 Main Street, Sag Harbor. Tel: 631-725-3535. Duryea's Lobster Deck is a no-frills restaurant where spectacular sunsets accompany very good fresh fish. Prepare to wait. Dinner for two, before beverage, about $60. 65 Tuthill Road (Flamingo Avenue), Montauk. Tel: 631-668-2410. Nick & Toni's, an old reliable favored by a celebrity crowd, delivers good, unpretentious American and continental dishes in a cheerful, relaxed manner. In high season, it's virtually impossible to get a table. Dinner for two, before wine, about $100. 136 North Main Street, East Hampton. Tel: 631-324-3550. It might have been a lark when advertising mogul Jerry della Femina opened this offshoot of his own personality, but it has proved its worth from first celebratory cocktail to the current crush to get a table. Count on it for a well-balanced menu of New American dishes. Dinner for two, before wine, about $120. 99 North Main Street, East Hampton. Tel: 631-329-6666. The continental dishes produced by talented chef Kevin Penner at the 1770 House Restaurant are just right for this intimate and historic setting. Less well- known is the lively action in the quaint downstairs tavern, where there's an equally good but less-expensive pub menu. Service could be a bit friendlier though. Upstairs, dinner for two, before wine, about $130. 143 Main Street, East Hampton. Tel: 631-324-1770. |
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